The concept, from the cozy confines of my tree-house in
Turkey, seemed simple. Arrive in India, receive help from a local to get
settled, move to a rural village, spend a couple of weeks teaching
recycling to cute school kids. Simple, right? Wrong. This experience is still
something I am trying to process, and has led to an entire other post about voluntourism.
As I found out, sometimes things are not as simple as they
seem. While the organization I worked with, Silver Earth India, had the best intentions, the groundwork had
simply not been done. The first issue was that I was expected to teach at
school that was not in session 5 of the 10 days I was scheduled to be there,
something I didn’t find out until the 4 days into my stay. While I understand
that India has “more festivals than days of the year” I felt this should have
been discussed with me when I arrived, not the day before school let out.
| My second day at the village school |
And then there was the “job” itself. My task was supposed to
teach and model trash disposal in a community that not only did not even have a
local dump, let alone trash bins or garbage pickup. Furthermore, the community of approximately 100 families did not have
running water or toilets, and many of the women (and I suspect men as well)
were illiterate. So yes, recycling can be done, the use of plastic can be
minimized, but in the grand scheme of things – shouldn’t toilets and education
come first? It was hard to feel like teaching people to use a dumpster was the
best use of my time, when many of the women there couldn’t read or write. The
priorities were felt entirely wrong.
| Women of the village escorted me literally everywhere. |
In addition to the trouble with the job itself, I was left by the program manager without a single person on site who spoke English, leaving me unable to communicate
with my host family in any meaningful way. My living situation was in a shared
room without toilets or running water. When I was not teaching, I was shuffled
from one neighbors house to another like a zoo animal. While people were kind, I was as alien as well.. an alien. My desire to use toilet
paper was a resounding scandal among the women (they clean with water and their left hand), and defecation was done in the open with no
less than 2 other women around at all times. Showers were taken outside, topless but wearing a skirt (turns out, this can work, although the all-women audience made me self-conscious). People were far more interested in
my travel pillow and my contact lenses than my teaching skills, and without the
ability to communicate in words, I was left feeling dumb, helpless, and very much alone most of
the time.
Due to all of these things, I left the experience
within a week. I did leave the village knowing a few words of Hindi (“I want to
sleep” and “my stomach is not good” and “thank you for the food”), the kindness
of the people who hosted me, and a HUGE and very real lesson about voluntourism
(read more in the next entry). I learned that full and true immersion into a
place where you don't speak the language is terrifying, mentally exhausting,
and incredibly challenging. To overcome these challenges requires support,
time, and ideally a community of others who are able to mentor you throughout
the process. One cannot simply be thrown into a village and expect to “make
people change.”
| My host-sister dried buffalo dung on the roof to make fuel for the fire |
I don't disparage the ideals of the organization (trash is a
huge problem in India), but I wish the program was set up to be more
intentional, and that the impossibility of teaching without verbal
communication could have been effectively addressed. I wish I had asked more questions before I arrived, and I know now what a serious undertaking something like this is. I ended up with my first ten days in India resulting in a good story, memories of kindness in an alien land, and intense, new-found gratitude for the simple and
familiar comforts of things like pooping with privacy.
Live and learn, I guess. That must have been the quietest week of your life, what with your bubbly personality, but a total language gap. Not the same thing at all, but I once spent a day with no one that spoke English (they spoke French). We were still in very westernized surroundings and all, but the inability to communicate--even for an afternoon--was challenging. I am sure it was a very surreal experience for you. Those saris are just beautiful. So bright.
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